The Museum of Art and Design–a sleek, modern building that stands alone in Columbus Circle–houses on its second floor a particularly glittery exhibit. The over-600 pieces in Fashion Jewelry: The Collection of Barbara Berger were hand-picked by the woman herself from the over-4,000 she has accumulated during a period of 50 years. Before reading the exhibit’s placard, one would never imagine all this jewelry was owned by just one fanatic. The collection seems more like an exploration of royal and wealthy ornamentation across cultures and schools of fashion.

Only the most extravagant adjectives do justice to the stars of the show: opulent, fanciful, regal, exotic… Striking, too, is how eclectic the collection is: from polished (a classic Chanel necklace) to exotic (a colorful pendant depicting the Buddha), and playful (neon children’s toys amassed into a necklace). The most extravagant pieces feature cut glass sewn together such that they display a glittering rainbow as one walks past. I spent a few minutes swaying back and forth with squinted eyes in front of those.

Surrounded by glass cases, one wonders how the woman stumbled upon each of these pieces, how she afforded them, and what personality must match such a taste in jewelry. There’s no need to wonder for long. In the corner of one room is a table with three copies of the book edition of the exhibit, of the same title. Barbara Berger introduces the pictures with a brief background on her life. It turns out she is the daughter of a man in the diamond business, and the wife of another. Perhaps the girl swimming in diamonds finds them about as exciting as water; her collection features only costume jewelry, not fine jewelry. As for questions about her personal style, she provides guidelines:

1.   Always put on more jewelry, and mix fine with costume.
2.   Wear earrings at all times. A woman is underdressed without them, plus earlobes are terribly sexy.
3.   Jewelry should be worn and not wear you; it all works if you have confidence.
4.   Traveling is a bore if you don’t include shopping for jewelry–that’s all the fun!
5.   A woman’s power is revealed through her jewelry. Her adornment gives her strength to confront the world, like an Amazon carrying her shield.
6.   Above all, have fun!

The exhibit is open through January 20th although part closed September 22nd. The book is available in the MAD Museum’s gift shop (and online) for $65.

Photo: Maison Gripoix (circa 2000), France